It’s a hot Saturday in Melbourne. The mower has just stalled for the second time, and the back lawn is looking patchy and brown again. There is no doubt that cleaning that lawn is a big task. And somewhere between the sweat and the grumbling, artificial turf starts to sound like a very good idea. But how hard can it be to just roll it out?

The most important thing is: how do you lay artificial turf? Understanding how the whole job fits together before you start will save you time, money and a lot of rework. So let’s break it down.

How Do You Lay Artificial Turf?

Laying turf is doable if you follow the steps in order: measure, clear, drain, compact the base, roll out, trim and join, fix the edges, then add infill if your turf needs it. Depths, fixings, and adhesive vary by product and site, so keep the manufacturer’s instructions handy.

What to Check Before Installation

Have a quick think about a few things before you start digging.

• Read the installation notes for your turf – Base material, fixings and infill aren’t the same for every product, so go by what the manufacturer says.
• Look at the site – Notice where the sun hits, where water sits after rain and which way the ground slopes. Drainage matters a lot with turf, so it pays to know this before you start.
• Check for underground services – Water, gas, power and stormwater lines might be buried right where you plan to dig. Find out where they are first.
• Make sure you are allowed – If you rent, or you’re in an owners corporation or a new estate, get the okay before you change the yard.

Tools and Materials

You’ll probably use most of the items below. Base material, adhesive, and fixings vary by product, so have a quick word with your supplier before you buy.

• Measuring tape, string line and marking paint
• Spade, rake and wheelbarrow
• Spirit level and a straight edge
• Plate compactor (most hire shops stock them)
• Base material suited to your product and site
• Weed membrane or underlay, if your product calls for it
• Sharp utility knife with spare blades
• Joining tape and adhesive recommended for your turf
• Fixings suited to the edge type, such as nails or pegs
• Stiff broom, plus infill if required

Steps to Follow

Here are the steps that will help you understand how to lay turf properly. Work through them in order, because each one sets up the next.

Step1 – Measure and Plan the Layout

Start by measuring the area and drawing a rough sketch. Mark in the flower beds, paths, curves, trees and posts. Then work out how much turf you’ll need, and order a little more than the number says so you’ve got room to fit and trim.

If it’s going to take more than one roll, work out where each piece will go before you buy. Fewer seams means a better-looking lawn. Look at the finished height too, next to paths, doors, patios and edging. Turf sitting too high or too low against those is annoying to sort out once it’s down.

Here’s how it might look on a real job. Say you’re a Melbourne homeowner with a rectangular backyard. Measure the length and width at both ends and in the middle, since fences aren’t always parallel. Then look up the roll widths for your turf and sketch whether one roll can run the full length or you’ll need a join. Pick the pile direction that looks best from the back door, and confirm roll sizes and availability with the supplier before you order. This is only an example, not a guide to depths, quantities or fixing intervals for a real project.

Step 2 – Remove Existing Grass and Loose Material

Take out the old lawn, roots and weeds with a sod cutter or a spade. Leave anything organic behind, and it’ll rot, and your turf will sink in patches. Dig down until the ground is firm and clean. Have a look at your council’s rules on green waste too, so you know what to do with all that grass and soil.

Step 3 – Check Drainage and Edges

Don’t skip this one, because drainage problems are a headache to fix once the turf is down. The backing on most turf lets water through, but the ground underneath still has to drain, or the water has nowhere to go.

Walk the site and look at:

• Low spots where water sits after rain
• Which way the ground slopes, and whether it runs toward the house
• Existing stormwater drains and downpipes
• Edges like pavers, garden borders or retaining walls that will hold the turf in place

If the site drains badly, talk to a landscaper before you go any further. Sorting out drainage after the turf is in is a big, expensive job.

Step 4 – Prepare and Compact the Base for Artificial Grass

The base is what keeps your lawn flat. Get it firm and even, and the turf on top will look the same. Leave it soft or lumpy, and you’ll see every dip and bump through the grass.

Here’s how it goes:

• Dig out the soil to the depth your product calls for
• Spread the base material in layers. Your product’s guidance will tell you which type to use.
• Rake it flat and check it with a straight board or spirit level.
• Go over it with a plate compactor, which you can hire.
• Shape the surface so water can run off, if your site needs it.

How deep to dig and what material to use depends on your turf, your soil and how much use the lawn will get. If you’re unsure, check the manufacturer’s instructions or ask a professional.

Step 5 – Add Underlay or Weed Membrane Where Required

Some turf installers use a weed membrane, some use a shock-absorbing underlay, and some use neither. Depending on your soil conditions and installation design, a weed control membrane may help suppress weeds and separate the soil from the aggregate sub-base.

If you do lay a membrane, keep it flat and wrinkle-free, because bumps underneath show up on top.

Step 6 – Position the Artificial Turf

Roll the turf out in the direction you planned, then leave it to relax before you cut or fix anything. Lay pieces side by side with the pile leaning the same way, and don’t pull the turf too tight. The turf can also get hot in the sun, so handle it carefully.

Step 7: Cut and Trim the Turf

Trim the turf to fit with a sharp knife. Then cut it from the back along the stitch rows. It is important to change blades because a blunt one tears the turf instead of cutting it. Go slowly, take a little off at a time, and leave some extra until you are sure of the fit.

Step 8: Join Separate Pieces

You want the seam to disappear. A bad join is the first thing you’ll notice every time you step outside.

A typical join goes like this:

1. Trim the edges of both pieces so they fit together tightly.
2. Lay joining tape under the seam.
3. Apply the adhesive recommended for your turf.
4. Press the edges together, keeping the fibres standing up and out of the glue.
5. Let it cure as directed before anyone walks on it.

Tape and adhesive types vary, so follow the instructions for your product.

Step 9 – Secure the Perimeter

Once the turf is down and joined, fix the edges so nothing lifts. How you do it depends on what’s next to the turf, whether that’s concrete, pavers, soil or a timber border. Nails and pegs are the usual choices.

Step 10 – Apply Infill and Brush the Surface

Some turf needs infill, and some doesn’t. It’s a granular material that gets worked in between the fibres, and what it does depends on the product. If yours needs it, spread it evenly and brush it in. Then walk over the lawn and look for low spots, visible seams or flattened patches.

Once you are done installing, remember it still needs care. Artificial turf is not maintenance-free, and regular brushing and cleaning help it keep looking good. If you want to know what helps and what harms, then our artificial grass do’s and don’ts guide is worth a read.

Can Artificial Grass be Installed Over Concrete?

Usually, yes. If the concrete is sound and drains properly. Look for major cracks or heaving. Once it is done, check that the slab has a slight fall so water does not pool. Ask your supplier what suits your product, since artificial grass underlay and fixing methods can differ from a soil base.

Common Installation Mistakes

These come up again and again:

• A poorly compacted base, which leads to dips and ripples
• Ignoring drainage, so water has nowhere to go.
• Laying pieces with the pile leaning in different directions, so they look like different colours.
• Cutting before the turf has settled, which can leave gaps
• Rough seams from poor trimming or too much adhesive
• Skipping the manufacturer’s instructions, since products differ

Artificial Grass DIY Installation vs Professional Installation

Plenty of people lay their own turf, and a small, flat, well-drained patch is a fair job for a confident DIYer. If you’re looking up how to install artificial turf yourself, be realistic about what’s involved. Digging out, compacting the base, and hauling heavy rolls around is hard yakka, and it takes longer than most people expect.

It’s worth calling in a professional if:

• The area is big, sloped or an awkward shape.
• Drainage is a worry
• You’ll need several joins or tricky cuts.
• The job involves concrete, retaining walls or structural edges.
• You’d like a warranty on the workmanship.

Still not sure? Get a quote from a local landscaper. It’s a good way to see what the job really involves, and you can still pick your own turf. If lifespan is on your mind before you decide, our article on how long artificial grass lasts is worth a read.

Planning an artificial-grass project? Explore Titan Trade Centre’s artificial turf range or contact the team to confirm current specifications, roll sizes and availability.

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